Start in Mui Ne Beach, one of the prettiest of Vietnam's beach resorts. Windsurf, sand board, kite sail or just chill out before heading up the Cham coast of culture. Veer off the trail to the atmospheric Cham tower of Po Ro Me, a home to bats on an isolated hill. Continue north to Thap Cham to visit the famous Po Klong Garai Cham Towers from the 13th century.

Further up the coast is Nha Trang, Vietnam's honky-tonk beach capital, but you can also dose up on culture at the Po Nagar Cham Towers. Carrying up the coast are Cham towers and beaches in abundance. Keep up with the Cham at Tuy Hoa. Quy Nhon and Tam Ky. Break for the beach at Doc Let, Whale Island or My Khe.

Head into Hoi An, a charming old port town and a base for the Cham finale. Make a day trip to the former Cham capital of My Son, spectacularly situated under the shadow of Cat's Tooth Mountain. Finally romp into Danang to put it all into perspective at the Museum of Cham Sculpture, home to the world's finest col­lection of Cham sculpture.

Oh, and by the way, central Vietnam has a 30km-long beach running from Danang to Hoi An. Call it China Bead to the north, Cua Dai Beach to the south - either way it's paradise and the perfect end to this trip.

For adrenaline junkies or nature lovers, Vietnam has plenty to offer. Start out with a visit to Ha long Bay for some sea kayaking among the karsts. Experienced climbers with their own gear might leave the water far below, as these limestone outcrops offer some excellent ascents, plus there is organized climbing around Cat Ba Island.
 

Further northeast in  Bai Tu Long Bay, take to the water by local boat to see the 'new' Ha long Bay without the tourists. Boating, kayaking, even surfing, are possibilities here and there are some beautiful beaches on Quan Lan's east coast.

Heading south to central Vietnam , Bach Ma National Park is well geared up for walkers and has a series flush trails to secluded water­falls. Down on the coast below Bach Ma is China Beach.

Go under the waves at Nha Trang, dive capital of Vietnam, before heading up towards the hills of the central highlands. Wind up, or down, in Dalat, a base for abseiling, cycling or rock climbing. Don't forget two of Vietnam's best-known national parks: the birding hot spot of Cat Tien, with a population of rare Javan rhinos, and Yok Don, home to elephants, elephant s and more elephants.

With their own wheels, travelers can tear up the three-day tourist trail through the Mekong byways and delve deeper into the delta to be rewarded with its rhythms, fragrances and colors. For anyone battling the insane highways of the delta by motorbike, a helmet is a wise accessory (and required by law)!
 

Beginning in Ben Tre, take a boat trip to the islands around Vinh Long for an overnight in a bungalow set in a small longan orchard. From Ben Tre, a trek to Can Tho takes you to the home of the famous Ho Chi Minh ' Tin Man' statue and the delta's most cosmopolitan and commercial city. Take a detour to Soc Trang, home to a sizeable Cambodian com­munity and its wonderful wats (temples).

Float by boat through the local floating markets before moving on to charming Chau Doc, a border-crossing town for those pushing westward into Cambodia via river or road. Check out the views of the pancake delta from the heights of Sam Mountain.
 

The departure from the road more travelled starts here, heading south-west to Ba Chuc and its bone pagoda, and then through Ha Tien, another border town with a beach to boot. Even more bucolic a beach can be found at Hon Chong, where the sunset meets the sea and the rocky coastal geography contrasts sharply with the sandy beaches east of Ho Chi Minh City.
 

From here, travellers can take the highway along the southern edge of the delta region to Rach Gia, the jumping-off point for those bound for An Thoi on serene Phu Quoc Island. Phu Quoc affords rest and relaxation, nuoc mam (fish sauce) and forest reserves - a spectacular end to the Mekong Delta experience.

Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself, a land of brooding mountains, a mosaic of ethnic minorities, a region of overwhelming beauty. Hit the road by 4WD or motorbike for an adventure more than a holiday.
 

Leaving the capital, head west to the villages of Mai Chau, which are home to the White Thai people and a perfect introduction to the life of the minorities. Northwest of here, where the road begins to climb into the Hoang Lien Mountains (Tonldnese Alps), a logical stop is Son La.
 

Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates with history; it was here that the French colonial story ended with their overwhelming defeat at the hands of the Viet Minh in one of the most celebrated military victories in Vietnamese history.
 

Climb over the mighty Tram Ton Pass to Sapa. This is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day !), an amazing array of minority peoples and some of the region's most colorful markets. Bail out here by train from Lao Cai, or continue east to Bac Ha, home to the Flower H'mong. Motorbikers can continue on to Ha Giang, a realm of mythical landscapes and unchartered territory. From here head to the lovely lakes of Ba Be National Park before heading north east to Cao Bang, a province peppered with karsts, caves and beautiful waterfalls.

Acclimatize in the capital, Hanoi see the sights, wine and dine and prepare for the long ride south. Head to nearby Ninh Binh, gateway to the striking scenery of Tam Coc and Hoa Lu, and the funky gibbons of Cuc Phuong National Park.
 

Experience Hue, imperial capital of old, then head up and over (or under) the mighty Hai Van Pass to Danang, gateway to China Beach. Hoi An is the place for some time out - sightseeing, shopping and sunning yourself on the beach.
 

Head to the golden sands of Quy Nhon for some relaxation. Enter NhaTrang, the biggest, and brashest, beach resort in Vietnam, and try a hedonistic boat trip to nearby islands. If it's all too much, carry on south to Mui Ne Beach, a tropical idyll with smart resorts, blessed-out budge options, towering dunes and crazy kite surfing.

Finish up in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), where you can indulge in sophisticated shopping, delectable dining and the liveliest night scene in the country.

Run this one in reverse, start out in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Hit the markets, browse a couple of museums and go underground into the alternate world that is the Cu Chi Tunnels. Carry on to Tay Ninh, headquarters of the Cao Dai sect and its rococo temple, for a morning service.

Dip into the Mekong Delta for a day or two. Try an overnight or two at Can Tho, the social and commercial heart of the region, and take to the water to cruise through the watery world of the floating markets.

Head up into the central highlands to the romantic hill station of Dalat. Back down on the coast, take in the stops from the Great Ocean Road itinerary (see opposite), including the beach resort of Nha Trang, the cultured charmer that is Hoi An and the old imperial capital of Hue. North of Hue is the former Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) that divided North and South Vietnam. All around this area are famous sixes from the American War, including Khe Sanh Combat Base and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. All aboard the night train to Hanoi, gateway to the north, or cruise up the coast checking out the up and coming beach destination of Dong Hoi.

To the east of the capital lies Ha long Bay, with more than 3000 limestone outcrops dotting the scenic bay. Cruise through the bay to the rugged, foreboding Cat Ba Island before looping back to the capital through Haiphong, for the feel of old Hanoi.

Take a night train to Sapa, unofficial capital of the northwest hill-tribe region and a beautiful base for hiking and biking.

The Mighty Mekong

 The Mekong River cuts a swathe across Cambodia and is an ideal way to link up the neighbouring countries of Laos and Vietnam. Along the river's banks lie some fascinating towns and it provides a habitat for the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin. Take in the Tonlé Sap tributary and you have the makings of a great adventure on the water.

Crossing into Cambodia from Laos at the Dom Kralor-Voen Kham border crossing, head south to Stung Treng by longtail rocket boat. Make a diversion east to Ratanakiri Province  if time allows or continue south by boat to Kratie, the best base for dolphin viewing along the Mekong. Head south again through Kompong Cham  to the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh , and soak up the atmosphere here for a few days and nights.

Next, head northwest, taking a fast boat up the Tonlé Sap river to Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor . After a few days to take in these treasures, take a small boat south­west to Battambang  along the Stung Sangker, one of the most beautiful boat trips in Cambodia. Return to Phnom Penh by road to pick up a boat taking you to Chau Doc in Vietnam's Mekong Delta. And the adventure doesn't have to stop there, as boats continue all the way to Ho Chi Minh City.

Run To The Hills

Northeast Cambodia is a world unto itself, a landscape of rolling hills an secret waterfalls, and home to a patchwork of ethnic minorities, man of whom still use elephants to get around. It's not only the sights an sounds that are different up here, the temperature is notably cooler, i both Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri Provinces lie at almost 1000m.

Leaving the capital Phnom Penh, pass through the bustling Me kong town of Kompong Cham  before heading east to Sen Monoroi , the charming capital of Mondulkiri Province. Spend a few day here to bathe at Bou Sraa Waterfall, one of Cambodia's bigges waterfalls, take an elephant trek and explore Pnong villages be fore heading back to the Mekong at Kratie. This attractive littl town is the base to encounter one of the rarest mammals on earth, th elusive Irrawaddy river dolphin which lives in ever-dwindling number upstream from here.

Push north by express river boat up the Mekong, passing hundred of tiny islands and sand bars on a very scenic stretch of the river ti Stung Treng. To the east lies Ban Lung , provincial capital o Ratanakiri Province and your base for an adventure to remember. Fron here plunge into Cambodia's most beautiful natural swimming pool i Boeng Yeak Loam, ride an elephant through the rubber plantation to the stunning waterfall of Ka Tieng or visit the medieval gem mini  where much of Cambodia's zircon comes from.

The Lost Temples of The Northwest

The magnificent temples of Angkor are renowned for their splendor, but these represent no more than the capital of what was an unrivalled empire spanning across Southeast Asia. In the steaming jungles of Cambodia, for­gotten to the world for centuries, lie several stunning religious monuments that make the perfect excuse to extend your stay by a week or more.

The beauty of this tough trip on rough roads is that it is the alternative, adventurous way to link Cambodia's vibrant capital, Phnom Penh, with sublime Siem Reap, gateway to Angkor. Starting in Phnom Penh, head north through Kompong Thorn and on to the pre-Angkorian capital of Sambor Prei Kuk , Asia's first temple city. Farewell civilisation from here and make the tough journey northwest to the vast jungle temple of Preah Khan , one of the largest structures from the Angkorian era.

Continue on to Koh Ker, a usurper capital from the 10th century, with a wealth of monuments spread throughout the forest. Travel to Koh Ker via Khvau if you're brave, or go the easy way via Tbeng Meamhey , provincial capital of Preah Vihear Province, if you are taking your time.

Last of the temples is the king of the mountain temples, Prasat Preah Vihear , the height of Angkorian architectural audacity, its foun­dation stones stretching to the edge of a precipitous cliff. Breathe in the views as they are simply enormous. From here, it is a long run back to Siem Reap  via the former Khmer Rouge stronghold of Anlong Veng , where you can visit Pol Pot's cremation site.

THE CAMBODIA EXPERIENCE                                                 

Cambodia is only a small country and even though the roads are often bad and travel slow, most of the memorable places can be visited in a month.

Setting out from PhnomPenh , take in the beauty of the northeast, following the Run to the Hills itinerary . Make a choice between Ratanakiri Province  and Mondulkiri Province  to ensure maxi­mum time elsewhere. The gentle hills of Mondulkiri are better for budget travellers as traversing overland is easy, while Ratanakiri is connected to the capital by plane for midrangers seeking adventure. Tough choice... can't decide? Flip a coin, if you can find one in this coinless country.

Head to the south coast, taking the route outlined in The Cambodia Encounter. Take your time and consider a night or two in Kep or one of the nearby islands, and a boat trip from Sihanoukville to explore the maritime wonders of Ream National Park. On your way back to the capital, check out Kirirom National Park , home to pine trees, black bears and some spectacular views of the Cardamom Mountains.

Then it's time to turn northwest and head to charming Battambang , one of Cambodia's best preserved colonial-era towns and a base to discover rural life and ride the bamboo train. Leave in style with a speedboat to Siem Reap , passing through stunning scenery along the snaking Sangker River, and turn your attention to the temples of Angkor.

Visit all the greatest hits in and around Angkor, but use the extra time to venture further to the rival capital of Koh Ker, cloaked in thick jungle, or Prasat Preah Vihear-where it is all about location, location, location-a mountain temple perched precariously atop a cliff-face on the Thai border.

THE CAMBODIA ENCOUNTER   

Whether you start in Siem Reap and travel south, or head north to Angkor, this is the ultimate journey, via temples, beaches and the capital.

Hit the Phnom Penh for sights like the impressive National Museum with its excellent Angkorian sculpture collection, and the stunning Silver Pagoda with 5000 silver tiles. There is super shopping at the PsarTuol Tom Pong and a nightlife scene that rocks at all hours.

Take a speedboat to the Phnom Da temple, then go south to the colonial-era town of Kampot. From here, visit the abandoned Bokorhill station, the seaside town of Kep and the cave pagodas.

Go west to Sihanoukville, Cambodia's beach capital, to try the seafood, dive the nearby waters or just soak up the sun. Backtrack via Phnom Penh to Kompong Thorn and get a foretaste of what's to come by visiting the pre-Angkorian brick temples of Sambor Prei Kuk

Finish the trip at the temples of Angkor, a mind-blowing experience with which few sights on earth can compare. See the obvious-Angkor Wat, perfection in stone; Bayon weirdness in stone; and Ta Prohm, nature triumphing over stone-but venture further afield to Kbal Spean or the jungle-clad Beng Mealea .